{"title":"Keramikversiegelung für Kunststoff","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eKeramikversiegelung für Kunststoff\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKeramikversiegelung für Kunststoff\u003c\/strong\u003e: Keramikschutz beschichtet dafür freigegebene Kunststoffflächen. Struktur, Material und gewünschter Glanzgrad müssen zum Coating passen; bereits aufgetragene Pflegeprodukte werden berücksichtigt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEine aushärtende Beschichtung unterscheidet sich von einem regelmäßig erneuerten Dressing; beide Produkte erfüllen nicht automatisch dieselbe Aufgabe.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-kunststoff-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCeramic protection for exterior plastics — SONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eHow do you protect faded plastic trim on your car for the long haul? The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e uses Si-Carbon technology to lay down a satin-matte, hydrophobic layer on bumpers, trim strips and mirror caps — with up to three months of protection per application.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNeglected exterior plastic trim greys out fast: UV, ozone and the weather break down the surface polymers of the plastic and leave a rough, dull finish that grabs dirt and stops water from beading. A basic plastic dressing gives you a quick shine, but barely protects against fresh weathering. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles this from a different angle: the Si-Carbon formula builds a chemically anchored, hydrophobic ceramic layer on the plastic surface — not a plain oil that washes off, but a bond that keeps UV protection and water repellency active for up to three months. In a 750 ml bottle for regular use across all kinds of vehicles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon ceramic protection for up to three months.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon technology in the formula bonds with the plastic surface on a molecular level and forms a longer-lasting layer than classic oil- or silicone-based dressings. The sealant stays active through several downpours and hand washes, so you don't have to reapply it after every wash. That saves time and money compared with plastic dressings you have to top up every week.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSatin-matte look with no greasy overshine on exterior plastics.\u003c\/strong\u003e A lot of plastic dressings leave an oily high gloss that looks off on trim and bumpers that are meant to be matte. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant is tuned to the satin-matte factory tone of modern exterior plastics: the plastic looks fresh and cared for, without over-the-top shine. The result matches the factory-fresh look buyers know from the showroom.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHydrophobic surface that grabs less dirt.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealed plastic surface repels water and cuts down on how much road grime, limescale and overspray stick to it. Slushy rain and road muck wipe off a sealed plane far more easily than off bare plastic. That keeps the car cleaner between washes and takes some of the work out of the next one.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results with the Ceramic Plastic Sealant, prep is everything: first strip the plastic of grease and silicone residue with a plastic cleaner, then degrease with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and only then lay down the sealant. On badly faded plastic, a refresh step with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e pays off before you seal — it brings back the original deep colour of the plastic before the sealant locks in and protects that state. Apply the Ceramic Plastic Sealant thinly with an applicator sponge, let it flash off briefly, then buff it off with a microfibre — don't rub it in, just spread it evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology of the Ceramic Plastic Sealant — how it works and how it lasts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the heart of the \u003cstrong\u003eCeramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e: silicon compounds (Si) combined with carbon molecules form a chemically anchored protective layer on the plastic surface once you've applied it. This bond is more stable than a plain oil film — oils only sit between the plastic and the outside world as a physical barrier that rain and washes strip off fairly quickly. The Si-Carbon layer, by contrast, ties into the surface molecules of the plastic and holds up against water rinses and cleaning agents far longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the hydrophobicity, UV protection is the second key job of the sealant. UV is the main driver of plastic greying: high-energy UV photons break apart the polymer chains at the plastic surface, which shows up as visible fading and brittleness. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant contains UV absorbers that catch part of the incoming UV and slow the greying rate. The effect stacks up: vehicles sealed regularly every three months show far less greying over the years than untreated ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe up-to-three-months protection applies under normal conditions: regular hand washes or automatic car washes, normal weather, no aggressive cleaners. In practice that means three to four applications a year, which makes the 750 ml bottle enough for most vehicles over a full care season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question that comes up a lot is whether the Si-Carbon sealant plays nicely with other ceramic products in a vehicle care system. Since the Ceramic Plastic Sealant only goes on plastic surfaces and never on paint, there's no interaction with paint sealants or ceramic coatings on the body. If you want to set the whole car up with ceramic protection — paint with a ceramic coating, plastics with the Ceramic sealant, glass with a hydrophobic treatment — you can run all of them together without any conflict. Each area has its own product, and you keep the line between plastic and paint clear when you apply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the Ceramic Plastic Sealant — prep, application and durability\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow well the Ceramic Plastic Sealant works comes straight down to how you prep the surface. On greasy, silicone- or oil-loaded surfaces the Si-Carbon compound can't form a stable bond with the plastic — the sealant would only cling to the oil, not to the plastic itself. That's why pre-cleaning with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a dedicated plastic cleaner is a must, not an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: put the sealant on an applicator sponge or a soft microfibre and lay it down thinly on the cleaned plastic. Don't scrub, just spread it evenly. Depending on the ambient temperature, let it flash off for 2–5 minutes, then buff it off with a clean microfibre. On smooth plastics (mirror caps, sill covers) a single thin coat is enough; on textured, porous plastics (bumpers with a honeycomb structure) you can add a second coat after 10 minutes of drying to make sure the recesses are fully covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature and weather shape the result: apply the Ceramic Plastic Sealant at temperatures between 5 °C and 30 °C. Below 5 °C the Si-Carbon compound reacts more slowly and takes longer to flash off — which can lead to uneven buffing. Above 30 °C or in direct sun the product dries on too fast and gets hard to remove. If you're working in summer, move into the shade or shift the job to the cooler morning or evening hours. In winter, a heated garage or wash bay is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the first application on new or long-neglected plastic, a two-coat approach pays off: the first coat soaks into the surface and fills the porous, UV-damaged structure. The second coat then forms the actual protective layer on an even base. Follow-up applications every three months usually only need one coat, since the base is already sealed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it goes — bumpers, trim strips, mirror caps and more\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant suits all unpainted exterior plastic parts: bumper inserts and strips in their factory colour, sill covers, wheel-arch flares, mirror caps, A-pillar trims, plastic roof spoilers, door-handle recesses and rear diffusers. Vehicles with large plastic areas benefit most — SUVs, off-roaders and vans with pronounced plastic bumpers have a lot more surface that goes grey and neglected fast without regular care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn bumpers with built-in parking sensors, work carefully: don't spray the product straight into the sensor openings. An applicator sponge guided only onto the plastic between the sensors keeps residue out of the openings. If you need to, mask the sensor openings with a small strip of painter's tape before you start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot meant for painted surfaces: the Ceramic Plastic Sealant is built specifically for unpainted, pigmented plastics and can leave streaks on clear coat. On rubber parts (door seals, window seals) and rubber lips on bumpers you can use the sealant too — it protects rubber against UV embrittlement as well, though it lasts a bit shorter than on hard plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant compared — plastic care products in the range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX plastic care range, the Ceramic Plastic Sealant sits as the long-term protection product for regular care. Compared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffDetailer \"Innen+Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the Ceramic sealant is built for pure exterior use and longer durability — the KunststoffDetailer is better for a quick interior and exterior refresh with instant shine, while the Ceramic sealant delivers the chemically bonded long-term effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailing businesses, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/a\u003e are the alternatives with higher concentration and pro-size packaging. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant is aimed at car owners and detailers who want to hit professional durability with a consumer product — without having to switch over to the PROFILINE system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant — who it's for and when\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant is the right product for car owners who don't want to re-dress their exterior plastics after every wash, but value three months of quiet from plastic care work. It makes the most sense on vehicles that spend a lot of time outdoors and take heavy UV — the slowed greying of the plastic shows over the years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners who like to look after their car entirely themselves, the Ceramic Plastic Sealant is a solid piece of the care routine: after washing and drying, first refresh the paint with a quick detailer or a spray sealant, then treat the plastic parts with the Ceramic sealant. The whole process takes 20–30 minutes on an average vehicle and gives you an all-round cared-for look — paint gleams, plastic is fresh and satin-matte. This two-product set covers every exterior surface without needing special pro gear or know-how.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750 ml bottle lasts one vehicle across several care cycles: each application on an average car uses 5–15 ml, depending on the size of the plastic areas. That makes the bottle a year's supply for one or two vehicles. Paired with the SONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\" for the initial refresh of badly faded parts and the Ceramic sealant as follow-up protection, you get a complete two-product system for perfectly cared-for plastics all year round.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160878096719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2264000","price":12.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-Kunststoff-Versiegelung-750-m-6.png?v=1721514319"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Plastic+Rubber plastic coating","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBring faded unpainted plastic and tyres back to life for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber do? A ceramic long-term coating on a Si-carbon base for unpainted plastic parts and rubber — it brings the colour back to faded surfaces and protects against UV, weathering and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFaded plastic trim, bumpers gone grey and dull wheel-arch liners are the most common visual flaw on otherwise well-kept cars — even when the paint is flawless. Ordinary plastic dressings mask the problem for a few days, then wash straight off at the next clean. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e takes a fundamentally different route: instead of a temporary dressing, it lays down a ceramic protective layer on a silicon-carbon base that bonds chemically with the plastic, brings back the original colour and protects the surface against UV, moisture and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVisible colour revival on faded plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating sinks into the porous surface of weathered plastic and restores the original deep black — not as a surface film, but as a chemically bonded layer. On badly faded parts the before-and-after difference jumps out at first glance. The revival lasts far longer than oil-based dressings, because the Si-carbon layer doesn't wash away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e24 months of protection against UV and weathering.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ceramic layer forms a barrier against UV light — the main culprit behind fading plastic. At the same time the surface strongly repels water and dirt, which makes cleaning easier and stops grime from clinging. The up-to-24-month durability is realistic on cars washed regularly with a pH-neutral shampoo.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA flexible coating — good for tyres too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike rigid ceramic coatings for paint, the Plastic+Rubber formula is deliberately flexible. That matters for rubber parts and tyres, which flex as you drive. The coating moves with them without cracking or flaking — something most plastic coatings can't do, and exactly what qualifies this one for tyre care.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you start, mask off the neighbouring paint with painter's tape. The coating belongs on unpainted plastic, but on clear coat it can leave ugly streaks that are a pain to remove. Work in small sections of 20 cm at most and, after three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe down straight away with a clean microfibre cloth. That's how you avoid excess and get an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating with Si-carbon technology — why ceramic works on plastic\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e coating uses the same Si-carbon base technology SONAX developed for its paint coatings — but in an adapted formula tuned to the particular nature of unpainted plastic and rubber. Plastic parts on the exterior of a car are typically made of polypropylene (PP) or thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), both porous and UV-sensitive. The coating turns that very porosity to its advantage: it works into the surface structure and builds a silicon-carbon matrix there that protects the plastic from the inside out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference from classic silicone-oil dressings: silicone oils sit on the surface as a film and give a short-lived shine, but wash off at the next clean or in the rain. The Si-carbon coating, by contrast, forms a chemical bond that stands up to alkaline cleaners and mechanical stress alike. That's why SONAX explicitly recommends pH-neutral shampoos after coating, such as SONAX GlanzShampoo or ActiFoam — not because the coating is delicate, but because alkaline cleaners cut its lifespan short for no reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misunderstanding: the coating doesn't make plastic \"glossy\" in the high-shine paint sense. It restores the factory satin sheen that new plastic parts have — a rich, deep tone without a greasy oil film. If you want a loud wet-look on your plastic, you're better off with a plastic dressing. But if you want to lock in the original condition for the long haul, the CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber is the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe flexibility of the formula deserves a special mention: conventional ceramic coatings for paint are hard and rigid once cured — no problem on a solid base like clear coat. Plastic parts, and tyres especially, flex on every drive, with temperature swings and under load. A rigid coating would crack and flake here within a few weeks. So SONAX deliberately built the Si-carbon formula for Plastic+Rubber to stay elastic: the cross-link structure allows micro-movement without the protective layer cracking. That's the technical reason a separate coating for plastic is needed, and why you shouldn't just lay your paint coating onto the trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to apply plastic coating properly — prep, application and curing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003eplastic coating\u003c\/strong\u003e correctly is what decides the durability and the look. The process takes more care than a simple plastic dressing, but in return it delivers results that last 20 to 30 times longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrep\u003c\/strong\u003e starts with a thorough car wash. After that, the plastic parts you're treating have to be degreased with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — this step isn't optional. Old silicone residue from previous plastic dressings stops the coating from bonding properly. Wipe every surface with a clean microfibre cloth and Prepare until the cloth shows no more residue. The surface has to be absolutely clean, dry and grease-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, use the foam applicator pads supplied. Put a few drops of the coating on the soft side of the pad and spread it thin and even across the plastic surface in small sections. Work methodically — say the left trim first, then the right, then the bumper. After three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe off any excess product with a clean, dry microfibre cloth. Don't wait too long: once the coating dries on, it's hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCuring\u003c\/strong\u003e needs at least six hours in a dry environment — twelve hours is better for the chemical reaction to finish. During that time the car mustn't get wet, and the treated surfaces mustn't be touched. So plan the job so the car can sit in a garage or hall overnight. Once fully cured, the coating is car-wash-proof and develops its full water and dirt repellency. A good sign of a successful cure: spray water on the treated surface and it should bead off in clean drops rather than form a film. You can use this beading effect as a quality check after the curing time — if there's no beading, the coating may have gone on too thin, or the prep wasn't good enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set includes four applicator pads — enough for a whole car, plastic parts and tyres included. On big SUVs or cars with a lot of plastic add-ons, a second set can make sense. The 50 ml of coating fluid goes a very long way — with correct, thin application you'll usually have some left over for a second pass or a touch-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFaded trim and tyre care — ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e does its best work on two surfaces: badly faded plastic trim and tyres.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003etrim and bumpers\u003c\/strong\u003e the effect is most dramatic when the plastic has already faded noticeably. The coating brings back the rich black and locks it in for up to two years. On older cars or used cars that have stood outside for a long time, a plastic coating can take years off the car's overall look. In a detailing business this is a popular upsell: the plastic revival is visible to the naked eye and instantly obvious to the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003etyres\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating offers an interesting alternative to ordinary tyre dressings. Instead of reapplying after every wash, the ceramic layer holds for several months. The tyre gets a subtle satin sheen without the typical wet-look of cheap tyre dressings. You do have to be honest here, though: on tyres the durability is shorter than on plastic trim, because the mechanical load from road contact and flexing is higher. Count on three to six months rather than 24. Still far more than any spray dressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe coating also does well on wheel-arch liners, unpainted mirror caps, plastic door handles and wiper arms. It isn't suited to already-painted plastic parts (those belong to the paint workflow) or to rubber seals around the doors — there, plasticiser-rich seal dressings are the better choice, because seals need to stay flexible and the coating adds nothing over a good rubber dressing here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing many people underrate: the coating's effect is cumulative. Lay down a second layer after 18 to 24 months and you boost the UV protection and deepen the colour revival once more. On cars whose plastic has already aged and gone porous, the first layer can't seal the full depth of the surface. The second layer closes the remaining pores and gives an even richer, more even black. In professional detailing it's even worth applying two layers straight away on badly weathered parts, with six hours of curing between them — the result clearly beats a single thick coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating compared — ceramic coating vs. silicone-oil dressing vs. plastic dressing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn plastic care there are three basic approaches: ceramic coatings like the CC Plastic+Rubber, silicone-oil dressings and water-based plastic dressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-gummipfleger-gummipflege-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GummiPfleger\u003c\/a\u003e are the fastest, cheapest option. Apply, let it dwell, done. The downside: the effect lasts two weeks at most and the dressing partly washes off at every clean. For customers who top up their plastic at every wash, that's fine. For detailing businesses that have to deliver a lasting result, it isn't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater-based dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e give a richer shine than silicone oils and last a bit longer — typically three to six weeks. They're the go-to in the show-and-shine world, where maximum visual impact is what counts. The durability stays limited, though.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e plays in a different league: 24 months instead of 24 days. The price per application is higher, but spread across the lifespan the coating is the most economical solution. For the home user who'd rather treat their plastic twice a year than at every wash, the coating is the most convenient option. For the detailing business it's the most professional — because the customer comes back twelve months later and the trim is still black.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother difference that shows up day-to-day: how dirt clings. Silicone-oil dressings tend to pull dust and pollen in like a magnet — the oil film acts like flypaper. Surfaces coated with Si-carbon technology, by contrast, are anti-stick: dirt clings far worse and gets washed away at the next clean, or even by rain. In practice that means the plastic parts stay much cleaner between washes — an effect that jumps out straight away on light-coloured cars with black plastic add-ons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars washed daily — rental cars, company cars or taxis — the long-term angle of the coating really matters. Here an ordinary plastic dressing would literally get washed off every day. The ceramic coating, on the other hand, stands up to the mechanical stress of frequent washing and still holds for six to twelve months even under those extreme conditions. For fleet managers who have to guarantee a consistent look without daily upkeep, that's a serious advantage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying plastic coating — who the CC Plastic+Rubber is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at detailing pros and demanding home users who want to take their plastic care up a level. It makes the most sense on cars with large unpainted plastic areas — SUVs, off-roaders, commercial vehicles and older saloons with black bumpers get the most out of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003eprofessional detailing business\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating is an excellent companion to paint protection. If you seal the paint with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One\u003c\/a\u003e, don't leave the plastic out — faded trim next to freshly coated paint stands out all the more. The CC Plastic+Rubber rounds out the whole-car protection and delivers a consistent result across every surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003ehome users\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating pays off from the second year of use: instead of applying a plastic dressing every two weeks, you treat the parts once and you're set for 24 months. The set with 50 ml and four applicator pads is sized for a whole car. Plan the first application for a day with stable weather and access to a garage — the twelve hours of curing without moisture are the single most important condition for a long-lasting result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more practical note on care after coating: in the first few weeks, keep insect removers and alkaline pre-cleaners off the coated plastic. For routine washing, use pH-neutral shampoos like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e — it's pH-neutral and won't attack the ceramic layer. For stubborn dirt on the plastic, a soft microfibre cloth with warm water is enough. The coating's hydrophobic nature means most grime just runs off during a normal wash — you'll notice the coated parts need far less attention at wash time than they used to. And that, in the end, is the coating's biggest day-to-day win: less upkeep for a better result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml + 4x applicator pads","offer_id":53520119333199,"sku":"D1-SNX-2410000","price":45.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730647085"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" HeadlightCoating Headlight Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKeep plastic headlights from yellowing for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating do? It's a long-life ceramic sealant on a silicon-carbon base that protects plastic headlights from UV yellowing and fading for up to 12 months — car-wash-proof and tested by OSRAM.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic headlights are standard on modern cars — and they share one problem: after a year or two the surface starts to yellow under UV, turns milky and loses its clarity. That doesn't just look neglected, it noticeably cuts the light output too. Polishing helps for a while, but without a follow-up layer of protection the haze comes back within a few weeks. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in — a long-life ceramic sealant on a silicon-carbon base that forms a UV-resistant protective layer after polishing and keeps the clear effect for up to 12 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong-life UV protection for up to a year.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicon-carbon layer absorbs and reflects UV rays before they can attack the polycarbonate plastic underneath. Instead of polishing again and again, you lay the coating down once and you're set for the whole season. OSRAM has confirmed how well this UV protection works — independent proof you rarely find in the coating segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCar-wash-proof and weather-resistant.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike spray sealants or waxes that get stripped off at the next wash, the HeadlightCoating stands up to the mechanical and chemical hits a car wash dishes out. The ceramic layer is far harder than organic sealants and shrugs off the alkaline cleaners used in professional wash tunnels too.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSingle-dose portions for precise dosing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product ships in 10 portioned 5 ml sachets — one sachet covers both headlights on a car. That kills off dosing errors and wasted material. All told, a set gives you 20 applications, which is a number a detailing business can actually plan around.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating only shows its full strength on a perfectly prepped surface. Polish the headlight first with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e, then clean the area with isopropanol, and only lay the coating down on a fully degreased, dry headlight. And keep an eye on the weather — the four hours of curing time without moisture aren't optional, they make or break how long it lasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeadlight sealant with Si-Carbon technology — how the coating works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e sealant is built on the same Si-Carbon technology SONAX uses in its paint coatings — tuned to the specific demands of polycarbonate headlights. As you apply it, the silicon-carbon compound reacts with the humidity in the air and forms a glass-like, transparent layer that bonds chemically with the plastic surface. That layer is far harder than the plastic underneath and acts as a physical barrier against UV, oxidation and chemical attack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference from simple plastic dressings or spray sealants is fundamental: where those products just sit on the surface and get stripped off at the next wash, the HeadlightCoating forms a semi-permanent bond. A lifespan of up to 12 months is realistic, provided the prep is right — on a poorly prepped headlight that's still dirty or greasy the coating can't grip properly and flakes off far sooner. Prep is the deciding factor here, not the coating itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth getting straight: the HeadlightCoating is no miracle cure that makes an already badly yellowed headlight clear again. It's a protective product that locks in the condition after a restoration. If you've got a milky, yellowed headlight, you first have to strip the damaged top layer with a headlight polish and bring the clarity back. Only then does the coating make sense — but then it really does the job, because it protects the freshly exposed, clear surface from going off again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing a lot of people miss: ambient temperature and humidity affect the cure directly. The sweet spot is between 15 and 25 °C at medium humidity (40–60 %). When humidity is too low (under 30 %, typical in heated workshops in winter) the cross-linking slows down a lot — the coating then needs far longer than four hours to reach its final hardness. When it's too high (over 80 %) you can get hazing. Day-to-day that means: in summer, apply in the morning or evening; in winter, air the workshop briefly and only then coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the headlight coating — step by step to a professional seal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003eheadlight sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e takes care, but it's doable for ambitious hobby detailers too. The process splits into prep, application and curing:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStart with \u003cstrong\u003eprep\u003c\/strong\u003e: clean the headlight thoroughly of bug splatter, road grime and grease. If the headlight shows haze or yellowing, polish it first with a suitable headlight polish like the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — machine work with a small polishing pad on a dual-action machine gets you the best results. Then wipe the whole surface down with a microfibre cloth soaked in isopropanol to pull off every polish residue and grease trace. The headlight has to be dry and residue-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, tear open a 5 ml sachet and put the contents on a clean SONAX PolierVliesTuch. Spread the coating thinly in even, overlapping passes across the whole headlight surface. One sachet covers both headlights on a car — the product goes a very long way, so don't lay too much in one spot. Wipe off any excess coating right away with a dry SONAX MicrofaserTuch before it dries on. Dried-on residue is hard to get off and leaves uneven patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ecure\u003c\/strong\u003e is the most critical step: the car must not touch water for at least four hours. In that time the silicon-carbon layer cross-links and builds its final hardness. The first car wash should happen a week later at the earliest, so the coating can build its full chemical resistance. Ideally apply the coating in a garage or covered hall — not in rain, high humidity or direct sun on hot headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake day-to-day: laying on too much product at once. The coating is meant to be ultra-thin — visible puddles or run marks point to overdosing and lead to an uneven cure. When you put the sachet contents onto the PolierVliesTuch, work them into the cloth first before you touch the headlight. That way you avoid concentration differences and get an even film thickness. If you notice a spot has gone on too thick during application, take it off straight away with a dry microfibre cloth and even the material back out. Once it's dried on, the only fix left is polishing it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRestoring yellowed headlights — when the HeadlightCoating shows its full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe classic use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e is the combination of headlight restoration and a follow-up seal. In professional detailing this combo is standard fare: first the yellowed headlight is wet-sanded with stepped abrasives (P1500 to P3000) and then machine-polished until the surface is crystal clear again. Then comes the coating as long-term protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithout that protection the yellowing typically comes back within three to six months — because polishing strips off the factory UV layer the manufacturer applied during production. The HeadlightCoating replaces that factory layer and gives the headlight its UV resistance back. That's the reason polishing on its own is no lasting fix: you remove the damaged protective layer along with the haze, but without new protection the cycle starts over. In detailing businesses we see it day-to-day: customers come back every few months because their headlights have gone milky again — and that's even though the polish was spot-on last time. The missing seal after polishing is almost always the cause.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional workflow it pays to offer headlight restoration as its own package: wet sanding with P1500 and P3000, machine polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish, degreasing with isopropanol and finally the CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating. That full process takes about 20 to 30 minutes per headlight and can be marketed as an add-on to a detail. The material cost is small — the biggest cost factor is labour time, not the product itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn new cars or freshly polished vehicles the coating can make sense as a preventive step too — especially on cars that often sit outdoors and take a lot of UV. If you live in southern Germany, Austria or Switzerland and can't park your car in a garage, you'll notice the difference after one summer: coated headlights stay clear, untreated ones show the first signs of haze.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product hits its limits with headlights whose yellowing comes from the inside — say from moisture that's worked its way in or off-gassing from the bulbs. The coating only protects the outside. If a headlight stays cloudy despite an exterior restoration, the problem is on the inside, and the only fix here is a replacement or a teardown with interior cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother important point: the HeadlightCoating isn't suited to glass headlights, the kind fitted to some older cars and certain premium models. Glass headlights don't yellow from UV — their issue is more mechanical wear from stone chips. So before you use the product, check whether your car actually has polycarbonate headlights. On the vast majority of cars from model year 2000 on it does, but on classics and some European sports cars you'll still find glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeadlight sealant comparison — ceramic coating vs. clear coat vs. film\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the ceramic coating there are two other common ways to give polished headlights lasting protection: clear-coat spray sealing and transparent protective film (PPF).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClear coat\u003c\/strong\u003e in spray cans offers robust, durable protection and can last several years when applied correctly. The downside: the application calls for masking, even spraying and a dust-free environment. Runs and orange peel are common slip-ups. On top of that, clear coat isn't reversible — if it goes on unevenly, the whole lot has to be sanded off. For high-throughput professional use, clear coat is too much work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePPF film\u003c\/strong\u003e (Paint Protection Film) offers the best mechanical protection and a lifespan of several years. That said, wrapping headlights is demanding, calls for special cut patterns and professional handling. The cost per headlight sits well above the coating — for customers on a tight budget or on lower-value cars, film is often overkill.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e sets itself up as the practical middle ground: easier than clear coat, cheaper than film, with a lifespan of up to 12 months that's plenty for a yearly refresh. For detailing businesses the single-dose portions mean predictable material use — one sachet per car, no mixing, no offcuts. For the end customer the application is straightforward enough to do yourself after a polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that stands out in a head-to-head: clear coat and film are methods you do right once and then forget for years. The ceramic coating, on the other hand, needs a yearly refresh — which sounds like a downside at first, but has the upside that you inspect the headlight each time and catch small bits of damage early. On top of that, reapplying takes five minutes and needs no fresh sanding, as long as the surface is still intact. In a professional setting you can market that as a recurring service — a yearly headlight check with a coating refresh for a tidy flat fee.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a headlight sealant — who the HeadlightCoating pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at two groups: professional detailers who want to offer their customers durable protection after a headlight restoration, and committed hobby detailers who want to protect their own headlights for good after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003edetailing business\u003c\/strong\u003e the product is especially appealing: the portioned sachets kill off dosing errors and wasted material. Ten sachets in a set mean 20 car applications — at a predictable material price per car. Compared with wrapping, the coating saves a lot of time and lowers the bar for offering headlight restoration as an add-on. It works brilliantly as an upsell after a standard detail too: polishing headlights takes 15 minutes, laying the coating down another 5 — the extra effort is minimal, the customer benefit visible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eprivate users\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating pays off above all on cars that sit outdoors for good and whose headlights already show the first signs of haze. Pair the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the restoration with the HeadlightCoating for long-term protection — and you've got a workflow that keeps your headlights clear for the next 12 months. With a yearly refresh the clarity stays at new-car level, without you ever having to sand aggressively again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complement to the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating range, the HeadlightCoating slots seamlessly into a complete concept: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCeramicCoating CC One for the paint\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eCC Plastic+Rubber for plastic parts\u003c\/a\u003e and HeadlightCoating for the headlights — so the whole car gets a single, uniform ceramic protective layer. Anyone offering a customer a full ceramic seal shouldn't forget the headlights — they're often the first thing that gives away the age of a used car. A freshly coated headlight can lift the overall impression of a car significantly and is a detail sharp-eyed buyers and inspectors spot straight away — and in the case of the roadworthiness test it can even matter for the result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml (10x 5ml)","offer_id":53521296490831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2765410","price":24.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730655825"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2-trim-evo-ceramic-trim-restorer-protectant-keramikversiegelung-kunststoff","title":"Q² Trim EVO Ceramic Trim Restorer \u0026 Protectant ceramic coating for exterior plastics","description":"\u003ch2\u003eGet black trim looking black again – GYEON Q² Trim EVO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q² Trim EVO? GYEON Q² Trim EVO is a ceramic trim dressing that puts a deep, lasting black back into greyed, washed-out exterior plastic and seals the surface with an SiO₂ protective layer – so your trim stays black for months without you going back over it.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGreyed bumpers, dull mirror housings, faded door strips – you see it on almost every older car, and it is what makes a car look tired long before it actually is. \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q² Trim EVO\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls the deep black back out of exterior plastic and seals the surface against fresh greying at the same time. The EVO version runs a higher SiO₂ concentration and lays down a more even layer on textured plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePuts deep black back and keeps it there – no weekly topping up.\u003c\/strong\u003e Simple trim dressings just wet the surface with oils and disappear fast. Q² Trim EVO builds a lasting SiO₂ layer instead. The result holds for weeks to months – you are not back on it every weekend.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUV protection stops the grey coming back.\u003c\/strong\u003e Trim greys mainly from UV, which breaks down the carbon compounds in the polymer. Q² Trim EVO carries UV stabilisers that stay active after the job and slow the greying right down – real prevention, not a cosmetic cover-up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSheds dirt thanks to the hydrophobic seal.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SiO₂ layer on the plastic is hydrophobic: dirt gets less grip, rain beads off and the trim stays clean and sharp for longer. On the low-mounted parts that makes a real difference.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e If the trim is badly greyed or properly grubby, give it a serious clean with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-trim-cleaner-kunststoffreiniger-stark\"\u003eGYEON Q²M TrimCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e first and only then reach for Q² Trim EVO. The worst surfaces you can also warm through briefly with a heat gun – that opens the pores of the plastic and the product gets in far deeper. Then lay Q² Trim EVO down thin, let it soak in and take the excess off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhy exterior plastic greys and how Q² Trim EVO turns it round\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolypropylene (PP) and the other exterior plastics used in car manufacturing get their black from pigments and additives mixed in during production. UV attacks those compounds over time – the pigments bleach out, plasticisers migrate to the surface and oxidise. What is left is that typical whitish-grey film on black trim. GYEON Q² Trim EVO works SiO₂ compounds into the plastic surface, fills the pores and cuts down the gassing-out of plasticisers. At the same time it puts deep black pigment back into the material. The SiO₂ layer then shields the surface from further UV.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use it: restoring greyed plastic fast and for good\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo get the most out of Q² Trim EVO, clean the trim thoroughly with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-trim-cleaner-kunststoffreiniger-stark\"\u003eQ²M TrimCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e first and strip off old dressings, wax and oil residue. On badly greyed surfaces, warm the panel through briefly with a heat gun (40–60°C). Then put Q² Trim EVO on with an applicator or a piece of microfibre and spread it evenly – on textured surfaces work in circles so you cover everything. Once it has had its dwell time, take the excess off with a clean cloth. You see the result straight away – and once it is fully cured, the black stays.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works: which plastic parts benefit from Q² Trim EVO?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Trim EVO suits every unpainted exterior plastic part: bumpers, side skirts, wheel-arch extensions, door handles, mirror housings, bonnet edges and roof trim strips. It is at its best on black and dark grey polypropylene. Not for painted plastic parts (the coating ends up on the paint there) or for interior plastics. For interior trim we would point you at the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-interior-detailer-purify-line-innenraumr\"\u003eGYEON Q²M InteriorDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTrim EVO vs. classic trim dressings: what is the difference?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClassic trim dressings run on oils or waxes that fill the plastic optically and darken it for a while. After a few weeks – often after the first proper rain – the oil leaves the surface and the plastic goes grey again. Q² Trim EVO works differently: the SiO₂ compounds form a chemically stable layer that does not simply wash off. Which means trim that stays black longer, less going back over it, better UV protection. A lasting result instead of the same cosmetic round over and over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWorth buying if you want trim that stays black\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Trim EVO is for you if you have black exterior plastic and want something more durable than a standard trim dressing. It makes even more sense on cars that sit in the sun a lot, or on used cars where the trim has already greyed off visibly. As a full system: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-trim-cleaner-kunststoffreiniger-stark\"\u003eQ²M TrimCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e to clean and degrease, then Q² Trim EVO for protection and looks that hold.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"30 mL","offer_id":57134830879055,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2TRIMEVO","price":55.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2-trim-evo-ceramic-trim-restorer-protectant-keramikversiegelung-kunststoff.png?v=1772281707"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.ch\/en\/collections\/keramikversiegelung-fuer-kunststoff.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}